Diverse and hybrid

Of course, a large part of these modern diners' appeal rests in how photogenic they are. Selina Chan Ching, associate academic vice-president (university research) at Hong Kong Shue Yan University, says eye-catching interior design features are crucial in "attracting the younger generation, especially girls who love taking pictures on their outings and (posting them) on social media". Her 2018 article, Tea Cafes and the Hong Kong Identity: Food Culture and Hybridity, looks at the evolution of the cha chaan teng and how local foods relate to identity. "The diverse, ever-changing hybrid food served at these local eateries symbolizes the openness, inclusiveness and fluidity of identity in this migrant city," notes Chan.

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