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No-menu restaurant serves decades-long legacy of success

By Wang Mingjie in London | China Daily | Updated: 2025-03-08 11:57
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Michael Peng has owned and run Hunan restaurant since 1999.
[Photo provided to China Daily]

"One of the changes I made was sourcing the best British ingredients," he explains. "Our meat comes from the Lake District and we work directly with fishermen to get the freshest seafood."

Peng emphasizes that the simplicity of Hunan's dishes demands the finest quality ingredients.

"Sometimes, there are only three or four ingredients on a plate. You can't hide with that kind of cooking — it's similar to Italian cuisine in its respect for simplicity and quality."

Wine also became a focus under Peng's stewardship.

"When I took over, the wines in many Chinese restaurants weren't great. So, we invested in building strong relationships with wine importers and wine-makers," he says.

Hunan now offers a curated selection of wines, including low-alcohol varieties that pair well with Chinese cuisine.

"German wines, for example, are some of the best matches for Chinese food," he adds.

Despite its success, running Hunan hasn't been without challenges. The unique no-menu concept required building trust with customers.

"There's a big element of trust when you let someone choose your meal. It's quite an intimate experience to feed someone," Peng reflects.

Operating in London's competitive restaurant scene also demands adaptability.

"We're in a city that's so diverse and multicultural. People's tastes are broadening, and there's more demand for authentic, high-quality experiences," he says.

As more Chinese restaurants from the Chinese mainland establish themselves in London, Peng views the evolution positively.

"London is a melting pot. Chinese cuisine is so vast and relatively unexplored, so it's great to see more diversity. But I think authenticity is crucial. You have to pass on that knowledge, something I feel is getting lost today."

One of the barriers to preserving this authenticity, Peng explains, is the lack of formal training opportunities for Chinese cooking in the UK.

"If you want to learn French cuisine, there are institutions and schools. But where do you go to learn authentic Chinese cooking here? That's something we need to address to keep our culinary traditions alive."

Hunan's intimate ambience, attentive service, and emphasis on quality have garnered loyal customers over the years. While some have speculated whether the restaurant will aim for a Michelin star, Peng remains pragmatic.

"It's not something I've pursued," he says. "We're just a small neighborhood restaurant. But if my staff want to aim for it, I'd support them."

For Peng, the essence of Hunan's success lies in creating a happy, cohesive team.

"If your staff are happy, your customers will be happy too," he says. "I focus on building a team that works well together. I think that's really important."

 

 

 

 

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