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In a valley heavily dependent on tourism, the winter sport now hinges on weather that no longer follows old patterns.

For eight seasons, Altit's pool has hosted the Karakoram Interlude, a community-run tournament that draws teams from across northern Pakistan and extends the tourist season beyond summer.

During good years, the rink glows under floodlights, spectators leaning over stone parapets with teacups in their hands. This year, organizers prepared the rink as always, pouring water at night and smoothing the surface by hand to allow temperatures of below –20 C to set the layers.

"We stayed up until 3 am trying to help it freeze," Gul said. "We're doing everything we can."

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