Eleven years ago, I took a train from Shanghai to Beijing during the Spring Festival rush, known as chunyun. I got a ticket in a hard-seat car, no other seats were available. As a result, I was squeezed into a space so small I could not turn left or right.

And forget about going to the restroom; it was occupied by as many as eight passengers. During the 24-hour journey, I did not eat or drink anything - just to avoid going to the toilet.

It was a trip to remember. Anyone who wants to understand China - of ordinary Chinese, not just those frequenting five-star hotels - should get on a hard-seat train during chunyun, at least once. For one thing, you will instantly realize why China has a family planning policy.