日韩精品久久一区二区三区_亚洲色图p_亚洲综合在线最大成人_国产中出在线观看_日韩免费_亚洲综合在线一区

Trifles with truffles

Updated: 2013-07-28 08:30

By Mike Peters(China Daily)

  Print Mail Large Medium  Small

 Trifles with truffles

Chef Umberto Bombama with a monster black truffle: "I wanted to bring it here to Beijing to show everybody because it's very beautiful." Photos by Fan Zhen / China Daily

Trifles with truffles

Trifles with truffles

Trifles with truffles

Chef Umberto Bombana's magical mushroom creations give glow to his three Michelin stars. Mike Peters takes the taste test.

It's round and black and big as a bowling ball - at 620 grams it looms like the mother of all fungi.

Chef Umberto Bombana carries the massive specimen of Milano sporum, or black winter truffle, out of the kitchen on a silver platter. Other vegetables on the tray are mere mortals in this company.

Foodies on two continents know that Bombana and truffles go together like Rogers and Astaire. Love and marriage. Yin and yang.

He has hauled this Australian specimen to his brand-new Beijing restaurant for what amounts to show-and-tell. It's enough truffle to festoon an army of salads, if the chef could bear to diminish it.

Bombana, however, has enough smaller truffles to feed everyone who comes to the Truffle Weekend event, so the megatruffle will probably go back home with him to Hong Kong intact.

When a chef who owns three Michelin stars appears at a new restaurant in Beijing, the first question is usually: "Is China ready for such food?"

But the 50-year-old Bombana is not a fly-by celebrity, sprinkling his fairy dust in a top Chinese kitchen for a few weeks and then winging back to preferred climes in Europe.

Opera Bombana is his own restaurant - his third in China - and he has been cooking up Tuscan wonders for Chinese palates since he arrived in Hong Kong in 1993.

"Good food is something everybody enjoys; it's a simple as that," he says, shaving slices of truffle over roasted veal at our table to release a sublime, earthy scent.

"People want to experience it, have a wonderful dish. So of course I am confident about what I am doing here. If you do something well, that's well-prepared and very flavorful, everybody likes it, from a child to a grandfather."

Hong Kong, where his Toscano restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton hotel won accolades for 15 years, was easier to break into 20 years ago because it's such an international city.

"You have a lot of people there who travel, they have been dining in New York and Milan, so they know great food and they expect great food."

But he thinks a long history has given all Chinese "a great palate".

"They have many special techniques and everything tastes quite nice," he says.

"So if you do prepare something well, they appreciate it."

A native of Bergamo in northern Italy, he was trained at Centro di Formazione Alberghiera and apprenticed under Ezio Santin at Antica Osteria del Ponte, now a Michelin-starred restaurant outside Milan.

In 1983, he joined the famous Rex Il Ristorante in Los Angeles, where he became a star for his simple yet refined regional cooking. The restaurant is a mainstay for post-Oscar parties. By the time he arrived in Hong Kong in 1993, his name was becoming synonymous with "truffle".

Bombana was named the Best Italian Chef in Asia by the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in 2002, "King of the White Truffle" in the food-and-wine press, and Worldwide Ambassador of the White Truffle in 2006 by the Piedmontese regional Enoteca Cavour (Italy).

When the Ritz-Carlton closed for relocation in 2008, Bombana was in transition, too. It was a break from the everyday rush, but he didn't feel he had much time to re-assess his vision.

"At that moment, a lot of great chefs were coming to Hong Kong, new products were available, and it was becoming more and more of a gourmet city," he says.

So the challenge continued to be: Pursue the best, the freshest ingredients - and still keep the natural taste, the traditional Italian flavor.

"You are always trying to achieve beyond your limits, you know?"

"For example, I think it's fantastic to have the black winter truffles with the summer vegetables," he says, referring to the special menu he presented in Beijing last weekend.

"In the past, you only had black winter truffle in the winter, so you had to have it with the winter vegetables - celery root, this kind of thing."

After launching The Drawing Room restaurant with chef Roland Schuller in 2009, Bombana began to mold Otto e Mezzo, his most personal project ever.

The name, which means 8 1/2, came to him suddenly.

"Fellini's 8 1/2 is considered to be one of the top 10 movies ever produced. Fellini as an artist in general - not just a movie director - really fascinates me."

The film is a reflection on creation, Bombana says, and it came out in 1963, when a lot of things were happening in the cultural and economic life of Italy. "It was a very positive time, so I dedicated the name of the restaurant to Fellini."

His goal, like Fellini's is to deliver an unforgettable artistic experience, an effort that was recognized when the Hong Kong restaurant won two Michelin stars within a few months of opening, and a third star in 2011.

In November 2011, Bombana hosted the Hong Kong bidders for the annual World White Truffle of Alba Auction, an event linked by satellite to the Italian auction grounds.

Since then, another Otto e Mezzo has opened in Shanghai, and now Opera Bombana - an airy, more casual incarnation that also includes a bakery.

And occasionally, a truffle show.

Contact the writer at [email protected].

(China Daily 07/28/2013 page14)

主站蜘蛛池模板: 色婷婷综合久久久久中文一区二区 | 一本大道香蕉中文日本不卡高清二区 | 挑战者联盟第一季免费观看完整版 | 国产精品一区二区久久久久 | 日本一级淫片免费看 | 国产欧美一区二区三区在线看 | 51国产视频 | 一级毛片一 | 99pao成人国产永久免费视频 | 亚洲精品午夜一区二区 | 成人免费毛片aaaaaa片 | 国产在线激情视频 | 国产精品久久久久一区二区三区 | 国产亚洲欧美日本一二三本道 | 日韩精品一区二区在线观看 | 国产在线精品一区二区三区 | 一区二区久久 | 天天操天天干天天爽 | 91五月天 | 91免费观看视频 | 日本高清视频在线 | 亚洲最新色 | 国产日韩欧美自拍 | 午夜影网 | 成人在线免费小视频 | 偷拍小美女洗澡在线播放 | av网址在线播放 | 精品九九九| 久久综合九色综合欧美狠狠 | 全黄裸片武则天艳史 | 日本不卡视频在线播放 | 免费在线国产视频 | 欧美一区二区三区国产精品 | 99久久精品费精品国产一区二区 | 久久免费视频7 | 一区二区三区四区国产 | 中文字幕国产 | 亚洲精品一区二区三区福利 | 精品视频在线观看 | 国产午夜精品一区二区三区嫩草 | 国产成人福利视频在线观看 |