If you go

Where to stay

· Posada CampoTinto (598-4542-7744; posadacampotinto.com) is a charming boutique hotel offering stunning views of surrounding vineyards, a pool and a patio that's perfect for cocktail hour. The owners have plans to open their own winery in the next few months. Double rooms start at 180. (American dollars are preferred, as they are at many places in Uruguay.)

· The name sets a high bar, but Casa Chic (598-454-04030; casa-chic.com) delivers. Ten bungalows, each with two rooms, are perched on the hillside, and a generous pool seems to run right into the horizon. Sit down to a lunch of rosemary crostini with artichokes, grilled Camembert and tomato sorbet and enjoy the view of the Rio de la Plata. Double rooms start at 250.

· The Four Seasons Resort (Ruta 21, kilometer 262; 598-4542-9000; fourseasons.com/carmelo) is beautiful and spacious. From 370.

What to do

· At Familia Longo (Ruta 21, kilometer 270, Colonia; familialongo.com.uy), Dolores Longo likes to prepare toast with jam－along with personal anecdotes－to go with olive oil tastings.

· Cordano Almacén de la Capilla (Ruta 21, kilometer 257; 598-4542-7316) is the oldest vineyard in the region. Go for a late-afternoon wine tasting.

· One of the largest vineyards in the area, Familia Irurtia (598-454-23355; irurtia.com.uy) often has some sort of entertainment, like traditional dancers, during a tour. Book in advance.

· Make a reservation at El Legado (Ruta 97, Carmelo; 598-99-111-493) so Bernardo Marzuca, the owner, knows you're coming, and he will probably invite you to draw your own wine from the barrels in his tasting room.

Where to eat

· There's usually only one dish at the cavernous Comedor Lo'Korrea (598-4542-6583; [email protected]): the homemade ravioli. Dinner is about 500 pesos, about 22 at 23 pesos to the dollar.