Her early designs are mentioned with a few emblematic pieces, including the famous marinière, the sailor blouse in jersey, which was introduced in 1913. The development of Chanel's style is evoked, from the sporty models and little black dresses of the 1910s to the sophisticated dresses initiated in the 1920s.

This first part centers on notions such as simplicity, youth, movement or allure, mentioned unanimously and regularly by the press from the start of her career. These notions, illustrated by a selection of distinctive models, reveal Chanel's work specificity.